The Central Tien-Shan 96

Description of Tien-Shan tour and climbing the Mt. Khan-Tehgri (7910 m)

Photo of the Mt. Khan-Tehgri (130 kilobytes, JPEG).

The team: Russians - 3; Belgiums - 3; Americans - 2.


The real schedule of climbing Khan-Tengri realised in 1996 by the Mountain Club.
(The Base Camp is situated on Northern Inyl'chek glacier, 4000 m.)

 
1st day: August 6: meeting in Alma-Ata,
2nd day: August 7: in Alma-Ata,
3rd day: August 8: drive from Alma-Ata to Bajankol valley, Dzharkulak geological base, 12-14 hours
4th day: August 9: walk up to Bajankolskii glacier, 3 hours
5th day: August 10: on West Bajankolskii glacier,
6th day: August 11: Bajankolskii pass (4400 m) - Semenova glacier,
7th day: August 12: Semenova glacier - Opasnyi pass, bad weather,
8th day: August 13: Opasnyi pass (5200 m),
9th day: August 14: descent along Krasnov glacier,
10th day: August 15: Krasnov glacier - Inyl'chek glacier,
11th day: August 16: Inyl'chek glacier - the Base Camp,
12th day: August 17: in the Base Camp,
13th day: August 18: start of the climbing. The Base Camp - the Camp 1 (4600), 3.5 hours,
14th day: August 19: bad weather and broken crampons,
15th day: August 20: the Camp 1 - the Camp 2 (5600), 8 hours,
16th day: August 21: the Camp 2 - the Camp 3 (6000), 7 hours,
17th day: August 22: the Camp 3 - the top, 9 hours,
                                the top - the Camp 3, 5.5 hours,
18th day: August 23: the Camp 3 - the Camp 2, 4 hours,
                                the Camp 2 - the Camp 1, 3 hours,
                                the Camp 1 - the Base Camp, 2 hours,
19th day: August 24: in the Base Camp,
20th day: August 25: flight from the glacier to Kar-Kara- Alma-Ata,
21st day: August 26: in Alma-Ata,
22nd day: August 27: flight from Alma-Ata.